This article is created by Lou - participant in the ESC Project 2022-1-BG01-ESC51-VTJ-000056331 in Blagoevgrad, Bulgaria, co-funded by the Bulgarian National Agency of Erasmus+ Program Human Resource Development Centre.

TLDR: The past months have been extremely eclectic - I can’t even realize how much I have done since last March, from witnessing baba marta festivities to discovering the Orthodox Easter mass in Veliko tarnovo, before indulging in Turkish delights in Istanbul. I am going to miss the amazing people from ABS for sure...

Also, yeah, sorry for the cringe picture. But I had to have my mandatory tourist/Turkish tea picture.

First, talking about work, I kept running my weekly art clubs on zine making and denim painting (two of my main passions), while the hyperproductive Bojana organized some art therapy sessions and scrapbooking events that I absolutely loved taking part to as an attendee. I also had the privilege to prepare a module for the digital training curated by, again, the almighty Bojana.

Everybody made such nice events reflecting their multifarious interests that I honestly felt busy every single day - in a good way! I would say that one of the most striking events for me was the organization of a women’s only chat club, where we could talk about women’s rights in Bulgaria and their sense of safety. This topic that I hold very close to my heart has been very painful to dig in, as I felt that the feminism I stand for in Western Europe is definitely dissimilar to the one here. I struggled a bit to come to terms with the fact that we can’t strike for women’s rights here, that there is no protest organized specifically for that, or that feminist campaigns are virtually absent. Discussing with men about this was also harrowing. But it is part of the process and I still have to be more open-minded I guess. At least, I hope this women’s rights chatclub allowed the women to feel safe enough to talk about their experiences.

Now, let’s talk about the perks of living in Blago: traveling! I can’t be grateful enough to live next to the bus station. Every weekend for me was a good excuse to travel. I attended an illustration and graphic festival in Sofia (the FiG, with a focus on sustainability!), saw Souls of Mischiefs LIVE for 30 LEVA only and it was one of the best shows I’ve attended in my whole life, got my first tattoo, saw a bunch of hip places… and as I type those words, I realize I also traveled to Thessaloniki again to see some friends I met there two weeks before (!) play with their band, before going for a couple days to Plovdiv. I loved my stay there - weather was perfect and I learned a lot about Bulgarian history. I understand why Bulgarians love this city so much. But my favorite trip in Bulgaria so far has been the one to Veliko tarnovo. I stayed there for Easter, and I was mesmerized by the colors, the architecture, the blossoming lilac, and the tender greens everywhere, even in the city center… I would have loved to stay longer! I even had the opportunity to watch some traditional dances, went to church and got blessed and got a red Easter egg that I would like to keep forever, but it probably won’t be possible sadly. I learned some of the Orthodox traditions for Easter and ate kozunak - a fluffy, rich, sweet brioche similar to challah in a strikingly beautiful environment, so I was really happy I went there.

Gaston was also solo traveling during Easter and we met in Veliko, and had two great hikes together - one of them was pretty chaotic, but so worth it because we got to see the preobrajenski manastir. I haven’t been to Rila yet, so I can confidently say it is the most beautiful monastery I’ve ever seen for now. The colors were absolutely mind-blowing.

And a couple days after I got back from this jaw-dropping city, I hopped on a night bus to travel to Istanbul. I was a bit nervous about it - how am I gonna do without data, and more specifically, how am I gonna survive traveling with THE OTHER VOLUNTEERS?

As an extremely introvert person, I love traveling alone and doing whatever I want. I also am very aware that my favorite trips do not pertain to partying or clubbing unlike the other volunteers - I’m not into carousing especially when I’m on a tight schedule and want to enjoy every single second of my holiday in a country I will never go back to. But eventually, I loved this Istanbul trip. I learned a lot, mainly that I am insufferable when there is any minor inconvenience in the schedule I prepare for the day. And that the other volunteers are truly the best people for keeping up with me… Eventually, everything we did was amazing, and I had time to be alone and explore the city as I wanted.

Now, let’s talk about what truly motivates me to travel: food. I have been FEASTING lately. Here are the highlights:

Fluffy blessed kozunak for Easter in Veliko Tarnovo
Truffle focaccia in Sofia
Tarator in Plovdiv
BOZA!!! at vefa bozacisi (a DREAM came TRUE)
Cheesy, hot, melty gözleme with spinach in Istanbul
Lentil chorba in Istanbul
Turkish delights from the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul
Turkish tea
Çılbır in Istanbul (almost the main reason why I wanted to go to Turkey)
Turkish breakfast (khalvati) in Istanbul
Muhammara dips in istanbul
Falafel plates
Pide pide pide!!
And of course the most amazing momos from a Nepalese restaurant I went to with some other volunteers.

Actually this restaurant is the epitome of this trip: sometimes, it’s okay if my life doesn’t abide by the plan, and it’s even better to eat with friends.

I wanted to go to a Uyghur restaurant (a dream of mine), but it was closed because of Eid. So I joined the others to a Nepalese place that they loved, and we walked so much to reach it - but it was definitely the best second option ever. I would go back to Turkey only for this.The staff, first of all, is extremely nice and arranging. The food? Mind blowing. Very high quality nepalese/tibetan food, with comforting noodle soups with tasty veggies, spicy double fried gobi manchurian cauliflower, velvety dahl, sweet and spicy chili momos and vegetarian momos - the stars of the show. As crispy fried beauties, or as steamed plumped dumplings, those nepalese gems will make your day. Also they offered us the best Ayran I've tried in Turkey. Their tea is also incredible.

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